Tails from the Road: Casa Cangrejo, Xcalak, Mexico

I recently had the incredible opportunity to visit Casa Cangrejo, a hidden gem of a lodge nestled in the sleepy fishing town of Xcalak, just south of Tulum. From the moment I landed, you could tell it was going to be a good trip! I was welcomed by the lodge’s owner, Eduardo, and his driver, Uriel, who set the tone for the laid-back but vibrant experience ahead.

The three-hour drive to Xcalak flew by. With hardly any traffic and a road that winds through lush jungle canopies, it felt like I was heading to the edge of the world—in the best way. As we rolled into town, I was immediately struck by the warm, welcoming vibe. Laughter filled the air, and smiling faces greeted us as we pulled up to the lodge. And how do you kick off a trip in paradise? With a cold margarita, of course!

The lodge staff was absolutely top-notch—friendly, attentive, and always ready with a fresh drink in hand. The rooms and cabanas were stunning, each with A/C (a must after a hot day on the water), and every detail felt thoughtfully designed for both comfort and style.

Once I settled in, Eduardo gave me a tour of the town and the property, and then it was time for dinner. The food, the hospitality, the vibe—it all just clicked.

The next morning, we hit the water with one goal: bonefish. And let me tell you—it didn’t take long! Within minutes, we spotted a group tucked into the mangroves, occasionally sliding out into the flats to feed. My first cast got their attention, but my fly was too big. A quick change, and BOOM—I hooked into my first-ever bonefish! Even a small one absolutely screamed line off the reel. These fish are little rockets!

As the day went on, the bonefish got spookier (apparently thanks to the moon phase—luna was the word of the day). While we were taking a break for lunch, Eduardo suddenly pointed out a massive permit cruising by. I scrambled for a rod, but it was too late—he ghosted us. Classic permit behavior.

After lunch, we went looking for tarpon. The first few spots were quiet, but eventually we found a pod of juveniles rolling. I was overwhelmed—tarpon left, tarpon right, too many options! Despite a few close calls, I came up empty-handed.

I already had bonefish under my belt, so now I was on a mission for permit. We returned to the bay where we’d seen them the day before. Sure enough, a group of four showed up—but just as I was lining up a cast, a boat spooked them. We tracked them down again, got into position, and I made a solid cast. One fish peeled off and followed…but then a barracuda came out of nowhere and decided to take the fly instead, I was crushed.

We moved north to another spot and stumbled upon a triggerfish—an exciting surprise! They’re just as tricky as permit, and after several follows with no takes, I was both frustrated and stoked. Targeting a new species is always a thrill.

Later, we spotted a shark with jacks behind it. My guide shouted, “Throw! Throw!” but I hesitated, worried my permit leader wouldn’t hold. I fumbled it—bad cast, bad strip. Total chaos. We all have those moments, right?

We wrapped up the day back on the tarpon hunt, but they were nowhere near as active. We decided to call it after that and tried to look forward to a fresh start the following day.

With no specific plan, I told Eduardo and the guide to take the lead—and what a day it turned out to be. We kicked things off near the lodge, spotting rolling tarpon. After some fly changes, I finally jumped one! But just as quickly as it happened, it was over. He spit the fly. Brutal.

We moved into the bay and found several groups of bonefish. I landed a few and was feeling great. Then Daniel, my guide, asked if I wanted to explore a small, hidden lagoon on foot. Absolutely!

This place was wild—tucked away behind the mangroves and full of promise. At first, it seemed lifeless, but Daniel knew better. Sure enough, we spotted a school of 15 big bonefish, tails up and cruising. My carp fishing instincts kicked in, and I was ready.

We tried a few flies with no luck. Finally, I suggested a white Flexo crab—first cast got a follow, second cast a bite, and SNAP! My leader broke. Gutted. But we regrouped, re-rigged, and waited. When the fish came around again, I made the perfect cast. This time, the hook held—and chaos erupted!

The bonefish made a beeline for the rocks. I sprinted after it, reeling like a madman, trying to keep its head up and away from the rocks. After a wild fight, Daniel grabbed the leader and we landed an absolute stud of a bonefish. We hugged. We yelled. We cracked open a beer and just soaked it all in. Mission accomplished!

This trip was nothing short of amazing—from the people, to the fish, to the unforgettable moments on and off the water. I’m already counting down the days until I return in September with our hosted group!

Want to join us?
Shoot me an email or give the shop a call—we’d love to have you along for the adventure.